DC Delights: A 5-Day Travel Diary of Washington, DC
The US Capitol
Washington, DC: our nation’s capital and seat of government. Its name conjures images of political showdowns, contentious litigations, and unscrupulous lobbyists, and while those might be part of DC, they are not its entirety. DC is a vibrant city abounding with culture and life. It is a place not soon forgotten and whose memory beckons you to return.
I recently traveled to DC for the second time (you can read about my first visit over at this blog post), and here is how I spent my time in the capital city.
Day 1, Wednesday: The Long, Long Car Ride
Those of you who are return readers will know that I am Boston-based, and as such, I had to first make my way down to DC before I could explore the city’s offerings. In an effort to save money (and avoid long queues at the airport), I opted to drive the roughly 450 miles down to DC. Fortunately, I was not saddled with the entire drive; my trusty sidekick (a.k.a., my husband) joined me and split the driving duties.
We set off a little after 10:00am, and after eight-and-a-half hours behind the wheel, plus several pit stops, we pulled up to our Airbnb, a townhouse (well, the basement of a townhouse) in DC’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. At first glance, the place seemed nice. It was spacious and clean, and it even featured an NES, the original Nintendo system, for us to play. But as is often the case with first impressions, they proved misleading.
Day 2, Thursday: Space, Friends, and Pie
We had hoped to sleep in, but our hosts, who lived on the upper floors of the townhouse, seemed disinclined to oblige. They awoke at 6:00am, announcing their rising with a thunderous stampede across the floor directly above our bedroom. After a too-brief lull, they began to vacuum, and with that, any hope we harbored of falling back asleep shriveled up into nothingness.
Accepting defeat, we ambled out of bed, and after making ourselves presentable (well, as presentable as two sleep-deprived, dark-circle-sporting people could possibly be), we set out for the day. Our first order of business was food, specifically breakfast at Ted’s Bulletin. We made our way to the casual American eatery via a pair of rented electric scooters.
Helpful tidbit — There are several companies, including Bird and Lime, that rent out electric scooters in DC. To rent a scooter, download the respective app and follow the in-app instructions.
The restaurant’s interior was cozy and unpretentious, with diner-style booth seating and Art Deco accents. The no-frills menu featured such classic American fare as pancakes, French toast, and eggs prepared in a variety of ways. I had originally planned on ordering their pancakes, but after sampling their syrup and realizing that it was more corn than maple, I opted for the avocado toast, which for a quasi-diner, was surprisingly good. (There are many things that I will compromise on, but having grown up in New Hampshire near sugar shacks, maple syrup is not one of them.)
Brekkie from Ted’s Bulletin: avocado toast with scrambled eggs
Fed and energized, we headed on over to the National Air and Space Museum, a Smithsonian museum devoted to the history of aviation and space exploration. Despite a large portion of the museum being closed for renovations, we pleasantly passed two hours meandering through the exhibitions that were still open. Highlights from our visit included the Apollo II Command Module, a moon rover, the Wright Brothers’ 1903 Wright Flyer, and the main hall, which inspired awe with antique planes suspended from its ceiling.
Planes suspended from the ceiling of the National Air and Space Museum’s main hall
By the time we left the museum, we were feeling a bit peckish, so we walked to a nearby location of Shouk, a vegan Middle Eastern restaurant that we had eaten at during our previous trip to DC and were eager to return to. I ordered their mushroom shawarma pita, and it was every bit as good as I had remembered (my mouth is watering just thinking about it).
After that amazing lunch, we headed to Trader Joe’s to pick up some breakfast supplies for our Airbnb. We then schlepped back to our Airbnb with grocery bags in tow.
Helpful tidbit — When traveling, a great way to save money is to have at least one meal per day at your hotel. We usually make ourselves a quick breakfast every morning. One of our go-to meals is oatmeal with fruit – it’s easy to make, healthy, and filling.
We relaxed at our Airbnb for a couple of hours before leaving to meet a friend for drinks at Barrel, a whiskey lounge in Capitol Hill. We sampled a couple of the scotches, as well as split an order of roasted Brussels sprouts. Everything from the fare to the spirits and ambiance was enjoyable, and before we knew it, three-and-a-half hours had passed us by. We reluctantly bid farewell to our friend and walked back to our townhouse basement.
We, however, weren’t quite ready to call it a night, so we decided to procure some dessert. My husband gallantly volunteered to rent a scooter and pick up a couple of slices of pie from Pie Shop, which like Shouk, we had been to during our last trip to DC. And so, we closed out our day nibbling away on mixed berry pie while watching the season finale of Love Is Blind.
Mixed berry pie from Pie Shop
Day 3: Books, Botanicals, and More Books
We rolled out of bed a little after 9:00am, and after a quick brekkie, we walked over to the Library of Congress’ Thomas Jefferson Building, where we had a 10:30am timed-entry pass.
Helpful tidbit — As of the writing of this post, timed-entry passes are required to enter the Thomas Jefferson Building. They are free and can be reserved on the Library of Congress’ website.
We entered the library through the doors located underneath the stairs at the front of the building. We then passed through security, where all of our personal items were passed through an X-ray machine. After clearing security, we made an unplanned stop at the coat check. We had failed to abide by the 6 P’s* and were subsequently unaware that anything larger than a hardcover book had to be checked before entering the Main Reading Room. So, I begrudgingly handed over my purse, placing my most valuable items (cell phone and wallet) inside a small, clear plastic bag.
*Proper planning prevents piss-poor performance. A favorite saying of my English father.
The Thomas Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress
Baggie in tow, we followed the signs for the Main Reading Room, as well as the accompanying arrows on the floor. Those led us to an elevator, where a sign indicated that we should take it to the first floor. Once there, we had to sign in and then walk across the hall to register as a reader and attain a reader identification card.
Helpful tidbit — Unless you have pre-registered online, the first step in obtaining your ID card will be to complete the reader registration form on one of the provided computers. You will then be required to present a valid identification (driver’s license, state-issued ID card, or passport) to an attendant, who will process your form and then direct you to the middle of the room to have your photo taken. Your reader identification card will then be printed and presented to you. For more information on the reader registration process, please consult the Library of Congress’ website.
With our reader ID cards in hand, we exited the registration room and walked back across the hall to the Main Reading Room’s entrance. We presented our IDs to the attendants and were permitted to enter, and what a space we entered into! The beauty and magnificence of the space made all of the hassle associated with gaining entry to it worthwhile.
Main Reading Room
We spent the next half hour meandering through its stacks (there are two levels of books accessible from the Main Reading Room) and exploring all of its nooks and crannies. Once we had seen all that there was to see, we left the reading room in search of the Thomas Jefferson Library Exhibition, a recreation of Jefferson’s library that includes around 2,000 books from the original Jefferson collection, as well as a few thousand books from other collections within the Library of Congress. Finding the exhibition, however, proved rather difficult, for the Library of Congress’ layout is not the most intuitive. Lost in its labyrinth of corridors and stairwells, we fortunately came across an employee, who pointed us in the right direction. Back on course, we walked through the Great Hall, which rivaled the splendor of the Main Reading Room.
The gorgeous Great Hall
We climbed the stairs in the Great Hall to reach the Thomas Jefferson Library Exhibition, which while interesting, was rather anticlimactic. I had been expecting an immense, multi-tiered library à la the Morgan Library in New York; what I found was a circular arrangement of bookshelves in a room. Nonetheless, I still enjoyed seeing the exhibition, and I would recommend checking it out if you are in the Library of Congress (just don’t build it up in your mind like I did).
The Thomas Jefferson Library Exhibition
After several minutes, we left the exhibition and descended the stairs back to the first floor of the Great Hall. From there, we popped into the Librarian’s Ceremonial Office, which is located right off the Great Hall.
The Librarian’s Ceremonial Office
On our way to the elevators at the back of the hall, we stopped to look at a copy of the Gutenberg Bible on display. It is one of only three known vellum editions to still be fully intact.
The Gutenberg Bible
Before leaving the Library of Congress, we made a pit stop at their gift shop, where we bought a magnet and bookmark (I couldn’t visit the nation’s library without buying at least one bookish item). All in all, we had a lovely time at the Library of Congress, and if you are planning a trip to DC, I highly recommend penciling it into your itinerary.
By the time we left the Library of Congress, it was nearing 1:00pm, so we set off in search of some lunch. On our walk toward a cluster of nearby restaurants, we passed by the US Capitol, and we, of course, couldn’t resist the photo op. During our previous trip to DC, we had been unable to get close to the Capitol, as it was still surrounded by the fencing that had been put up following the January 6 Capitol Attack. This time, though, we were able to get close to the building and walk around it, something which we took full advantage of.
Posing in front of the US Capitol
Poses made and photos taken, we sauntered on over to Let’s Mix Bibija for some tasty bibimbap featuring tofu, an assortment of veggies, and a fried egg. (Note: Let’s Mix Bibija has closed since the time of my visit.)
After clearing our plates, we popped into a nearby café called Le Bon Café for a caffeine fix. It had a small, tidy interior with a prominent counter showcasing all sorts of enticing-looking goodies. Somehow, I showed restraint and ordered a matcha latte sans pastry.
Exterior of Le Bon Café
We took our drinks back to our Airbnb and relaxed for a little while before setting out once again. This time, our destination was the US Botanic Garden, a sprawling collection of both indoor and outdoor gardens. As we visited in January, we focused on the indoor gardens, which in it of themselves, had plenty to offer. The tropics, primeval Earth, and the world’s deserts are just a few of the habitats that one can experience inside the glass-encased conservatory.
Primeval Garden at the US Botanic Garden
I particularly enjoyed the tropical forest. It is the largest of the indoor gardens, spanning two floors. The second level, which can be accessed via stairs or elevator, grants you access to the forest’s canopy. As you sashay down the catwalk, you have the unique experience of walking amongst the treetops – for once, you get to have the same vantage points as birds. The warmth and humidity of the space also provided a welcome reprieve from the wintry weather outside.
Helpful tidbit — Admission to the US Botanic Garden is free, and no tickets are required. Opening hours can be found here.
After about an hour, we left the US Botanic Garden and returned to our Airbnb to get ready for our dinner reservation at the Fancy Radish, a trendy vegan restaurant in the H Street Corridor. We had eaten there during our previous trip to DC and were excited to return and see what new menu items they had concocted in our absence. We shared three dishes: rutabaga fondue served with a fresh-from-the-oven pretzel bun, Peruvian potatoes, and miso butter noodles. Everything was delicious (just thinking about the meal is making my stomach growl). Equally as delectable was the Harvest Moon mocktail with which we washed everything down. A blend of carrot, ginger tea, lime, club soda, and turmeric, it was a refreshing and pleasantly zingy drink. (Note: Fancy Radish has closed since the time of my visit.)
Inside Fancy Radish
For a post-dinner treat, we popped next door to Solid State Books, a bookstore boasting an airy interior and well-curated stock. I showed tremendous restraint and only purchased two cookbooks and a mug.
Solid State Books
Spoils in tow, we walked back to our Airbnb and enjoyed a cup of tea before calling it a night.
Day 4: Diners and Dinos
To no one’s surprise, we awoke tired, having had our sleep cut short yet again. This time, our early-morning wake-up call was the clomping of numerous feet directly overhead. If there were one advantage to our boisterous hosts, it would be that we never had to worry about oversleeping.
Awake, albeit not entirely by choice, we walked to Sticky Fingers, a vegan diner, for some brekkie. We were seated by a hostess and scanned a QR code on our table to place and pay for our order. This self-serve model was nice in that we were able to pay ahead of time and thus avoid having to wait for our check at the end of the meal, but it did have one drawback – as there was no waiter, there was no one to answer any questions we might have had about the menu. The contactless service also made the dining experience feel rather impersonal.
The food, at least, proved to be decent. I ordered the blueberry pancakes, and while denser than their non-vegan counterparts, they were still tasty. Plus, they came with real maple syrup (always a +1 in my book) and a dollop of some delicious cinnamon “butter.” The coffee wasn’t too shabby either. (Note: Sticky Fingers’ diner has closed since the time of my visit, but they still operate a bakery and catering business.)
Vegan blueberry pancakes with a cup of joe
Having already paid, we left as soon as we finished eating and hailed an Uber to the National Museum of Natural History. We spent the next two hours meandering through the museum, viewing exhibits on dinosaurs, marine life, human evolution, gemstones, and minerals. The dinosaur fossils were easily my favorite part of the visit; the Hope Diamond was a close second. My only knock against the museum is that it was extremely crowded. Were I to visit again in the future, I would come on a weekday so as to avoid such large crowds.
One of the many colorful crystals on display at the National Museum of Natural History
All of that walking and crowd avoidance had worked up an appetite in us, so from the museum, we walked the roughly 20 minutes to a location of Tatte, a chain of artisanal bakeries and cafes that began in Brookline, MA (yay, local!). I ordered one of my favorite items on their menu, the avocado tartine, and as per usual, it was delectable. I washed everything down with another Tatte staple of mine – the matcha latte.
Oh-so-tasty avocado tartine
We were feeling a bit drowsy after lunch (our lack of sleep was catching up to us), so we caught an Uber back to our Airbnb to relax (and drink tea). A little after 7:00pm, we ordered takeout from Pow Pow, a fast-casual spot featuring plant-based takes on popular Asian dishes. I had been craving them since our last trip to DC, and the general’s chicken bowl was just as I remembered.
And so ended our final night in DC.
Day 5: Home…but first, Ikea
After a quick breakfast of cereal, we bid a not-tearful farewell to our Airbnb and grabbed a couple of coffees from a café around the corner before hitting the road. We made a pit stop 30 minutes outside of DC at an Ikea in Maryland. Why? For a bookshelf, of course (this is Bookish Wayfarer, after all). Bookcase procured, we got back in the car and headed home, only stopping for food and bathroom breaks. A little after 9:00pm, we rolled into Boston.
All in all, we had a wonderful time in DC and are already pondering when we can return.
Summing it up: The 3 Wheres
Where We Went
National Air and Space Museum
Library of Congress
US Capitol*
US Botanic Garden
Solid State Books
National Museum of Natural History
*Saw from the outside; did not go inside
Where We Stayed
We stayed at an Airbnb in the Capitol Hill neighborhood.
Where We Ate
Breakfast
Ted’s Bulletin
Sticky Fingers*
Lunch
Shouk
Let’s Mix Bibija*
Tatte
Dinner
Fancy Radish*
Pow Pow
Dessert/Coffee
Pie Shop
Le Bon Café
Drinks
Barrel
*Has since closed
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments section below. Happy traveling!
